Dykh-Tau

Dykh-Tau or Dykhtau (Russian: Ð"ыхтау, Karachay-Balkar: Ð"Ñ‹Ñ… тау which means Jagged Mount), is a mountain located in Kabardino-Balkaria, Russia; its peak stands about 5 km (3 mi) north of the border with Georgia. The mountain is the second highest of the Caucasus Mountains, after Mount Elbrus.

Access

Dykh-Tau is best accessed from the north (Russia). Bezingi village may be reached from Nalchik in Kabardino-Balkaria with infrequent public transport, here a 4WD vehicle must be hired. Thus Bezingi Alpine Camp is reached at 2180m. From here it takes a further 2 days to reach the base of the climb.

Climbing routes

This is one of the great Caucasian Peaks, facing the magnificent Bezingi Wall across the Bezingi Glacier. The first ascent in 1888 by Mummery and Zarfluh was a major achievement at the time. Their route up the SW Ridge is no longer used as the normal route which is now the North Ridge graded 4b (Russian Grading).

Starting from Misses Kosh the ridge is gained by first crossing the West Ridge of Misses-Tau then continuing to the Russian Bivouac located by a hanging glacier descending from the North Ridge of Dykhtau, 4 hours from Misses-Kosh. Once a notch between Misses-Tau and Dykhtau is gained, the North Ridge is followed to the summit. Allow 2 days from the Russian Bivouac, there are several good bivouac sites on the North Ridge. Details and map

Mapping

Various maps of Soviet military origin may be found on the internet. These are in Cyrillic. Two maps cover the area.

References

External links

• "Gora Dykh-Tau, Russia". Peakbagger.com. 
• summitpost.org: Dykhtau